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Post by tonofclay{QAW} on Feb 20, 2017 13:22:59 GMT -5
If you have a spare SATA cable already hooked up in there and accessible, if it were me I'd just hook up the SSD to that one, use those drive copy tools to migrate your whole windows installation to the SSD (I'm assuming that's an option?), then switch the cables once you're done like you said so that it boots properly. Then if all has gone well you've now booted into Windows from the SSD and you can wipe the original drive and start fresh using that for storage or whatever.
I would imagine there's something in the documentation that came with the PC about removing those bays / installing drives. From the picture on amazon it looks like there's probably some easy mechanism for installing / removing drives into that drive bay like something slides out or screws out or whatever, but again I'm sure its documented in either something that came with the PC or at least online.
When I last bought an SSD it came with mounting brackets as hard drive bays were generally 3.5" and the SSD was 2.5" (so you'd screw the SSD into the brackets and the whole thing into the case) ... not sure if your drive came with brackets or if the drive bays are built to accommodate SSDs nowadays, but just thought I'd mention it in case its relevant here.
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Post by Porridge{QAW} on Feb 20, 2017 17:09:05 GMT -5
Yeah, you are right. I did notice from the other side of the machine lol, that I can take out the drive bay easily. And the holes in that bay align perfectly with the SSD. Phew. So, now I'll just need to get me some M3 screws, and I should be able to get that secured in the machine. Regarding spare Sata cables, the ones from the MOBO are being used already for the current hard drive and the DVD drive. I see that there are 4 other Sata ports that are free. So I'll need to get me a basic Sata cable. I also figured I'd need to get a molex to Sata power adapter cable. But one guy on YouTube cautioned against picking the wrong one since they seemed to catch on fire quickly. And some other dude on YouTube who sounded like a Canadian Jack Nicholson reading bedtime stories, suggested soldering your own multi Sata adapter. Lol. Fortunately I noticed that the power adapter feeding the current hard drive has another adapter connected to it in parallel. Mang, I'm learning more than I ever really wanted to. Anyway, will continue that project once the Sata cable arrives. Regarding the config changes, there's a thread below that Don Phobos started, that has some suggestions like: /r_primitives 2 etc., that I'll try tonight. Going to mess around with the config in general. I had OpenGL etc., all turned off previously. I'm going to try turning things up a little and see what happens.
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GerbilZ
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Post by GerbilZ on Feb 21, 2017 7:09:48 GMT -5
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Post by tonofclay{QAW} on Feb 21, 2017 13:20:56 GMT -5
If you're moving the HD out of an old machine you can just take the cable from the old machine along with it It's typically a red cable, connecting the drive to the motherboard. The other cable plugged into the drive would be from the power supply. I'm betting if you look at how its connected in the current machine you'll be able to reproduce that connection pretty easily in the new machine Looks like your wife got you a machine pretty similar in specs to the one Porridge got , enjoy it!
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Post by Porridge{QAW} on Feb 21, 2017 13:42:24 GMT -5
Yeah, as Ton said, if you're looking for a SATA cable - you can simply use the one from the old machine. The issue with fires that I talked about is with the power supply molex to SATA adapters. If you are simply replacing your current HD then you can use the same SATA power supply and SATA cables that connect to the current HD. If you're going to "also" use the old HD in addition to the new one, then you'll need the molex to SATA power adapter cable. You could prolly also take that from the old machine. However, this is the u-tube vid where it explains how to find "good" adapters (generally, you dont want ones that where the wires are molded into the plastic casing; you want the ones that are wired into metal grooves): Just for kicks, here is the Canadian Jack Nicholson making his own multi-adapters...
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GerbilZ
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Post by GerbilZ on Feb 21, 2017 18:22:41 GMT -5
Its double/triple the machine I might have collected on my own. I have games that for years I could never run all out, on more than medium settings, and this thing chews them all up and spits them out easy on highest settings. The 32" cheap Toshiba TV serving as monitor is apparently happiest at 1360x768, the combination of which is very easy on my feeble eye balls. All while randomly playing most of the products of Black Sabbath, Jethro Tull, and Pink Floyd in the background.
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Post by tonofclay{QAW} on Feb 22, 2017 13:22:31 GMT -5
Now that you've got that nice PC you can begin the search for a real monitor
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GerbilZ
Seen a few campaigns
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Post by GerbilZ on Feb 22, 2017 21:12:07 GMT -5
Bah. I already have new trifocals, and had my front teeth fixed after breaking the ten year old dentures, chewing bacon, of all things. I can see. Be happy. I do believe I'm actually doing a bit better with this setup over all. Minus the pandora and fb games lag from wife mother in law and the kids. :-P
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Post by mcbain{QAW} on Feb 25, 2017 10:27:48 GMT -5
Porri, based on my experience, if the W10 install is activated, then yank out the HDD and swap in the SSD and install from scratch before you get a bunch of data on the old HDD. I wouldn't worry about migrating data...it is just windows. And if it came installed, it might have other junk. Grab W10 straight from MS website and use a USB stick to create an ISO and install it fresh. Skip the activation step and when it starts up it will auto activate. No migration required.
Oh yeah, make sure you turn off Onedrive sync unless you want to bog your machine down with all of that data transfer (that is if you actually have stuff in Onedrive).
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Post by Porridge{QAW} on Feb 25, 2017 15:00:46 GMT -5
Porri, based on my experience, if the W10 install is activated, then yank out the HDD and swap in the SSD and install from scratch before you get a bunch of data on the old HDD. I wouldn't worry about migrating data...it is just windows. And if it came installed, it might have other junk. Grab W10 straight from MS website and use a USB stick to create an ISO and install it fresh. Skip the activation step and when it starts up it will auto activate. No migration required. Oh yeah, make sure you turn off Onedrive sync unless you want to bog your machine down with all of that data transfer (that is if you actually have stuff in Onedrive). Aah, I already installed my SSD drive last evening. I could wipe it clean and do what you suggested. But, installing it was simple. I connected it to a free SATA port and ran the Samsung data transfer utility that came with the drive. After that I switched the SATA ports of the current hard drive and the new SSD drive and set up the boot options in the bios. Samsung also included a magician utility program and then optimized the OS for SSD (since it was optimized for the HDD before). I'm amazed at how fast the machine boots up now lol. Within a second I see the Windows logon logo. V57. With my old machine I had to go grab a cup of coffee when it used to boot up. The only thing is I don't see the old hard drive in windows explorer anymore. What do I need to do to see that drive? Do I need to change any thing in the bios? Or run some partition program? I'm assuming I can just format that drive now and use it for backup storage etc.?
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Post by tonofclay{QAW} on Feb 25, 2017 16:39:16 GMT -5
Maybe it doesn't show up because it still has the old Windows install set up on it or something, so like you said needs to be formatted perhaps to show up for use in explorer.
If you right click on start button in windows you can pull up Disk Management ... in theory you'll see the drive listed here and you can format it to be set up as a storage drive.
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Post by Porridge{QAW} on Feb 26, 2017 0:42:29 GMT -5
Maybe it doesn't show up because it still has the old Windows install set up on it or something, so like you said needs to be formatted perhaps to show up for use in explorer. If you right click on start button in windows you can pull up Disk Management ... in theory you'll see the drive listed here and you can format it to be set up as a storage drive. That worked. Thanks.
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Post by mcbain{QAW} on Feb 26, 2017 13:39:18 GMT -5
You will probably be fine, but I have found a few peculiarities when mirroring installs across drives especially HDD to SSD. Maybe the Samsung utility avoids all of those previous issues I have had. I love the speed of the SSD. I can't wait until 2TB SSDs are $100. The HDD market will be only for archival purposes in 20TB and larger.
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Post by tonofclay{QAW} on Feb 26, 2017 15:45:38 GMT -5
This inspired me to dig through my collection of cables to find the appropriate one to hook up my spare SSD to the power supply. I'm hoping I can figure out how to easily move my Windows 10 install from the current HDD to the SSD while leaving the HDD mostly in-tact, as I have around 500gb worth of movies/shows/games on it I think this media creation tool from microsoft is currently creating a USB installer of Windows 10 that should be appropriately activated upon install so I'll start from there and see what happens
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Post by mcbain{QAW} on Feb 26, 2017 18:39:26 GMT -5
OMG! Don't put media on the same drive as your W10 install!!!
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Post by tonofclay{QAW} on Feb 26, 2017 20:03:19 GMT -5
I used to have it separate but my other 1TB storage drive filled up and I got lazy Didn't have any luck yet trying to install to that SSD via USB anyways so far, Windows installer does not like the drive for some reason and won't install there. Luckily I'm not too concerned about it so I'll just keep trying here and there.
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Post by mcbain{QAW} on Feb 26, 2017 20:12:16 GMT -5
I used to have it separate but my other 1TB storage drive filled up and I got lazy Didn't have any luck yet trying to install to that SSD via USB anyways so far, Windows installer does not like the drive for some reason and won't install there. Luckily I'm not too concerned about it so I'll just keep trying here and there. Yeah, I had a 2.5" HDD to USB enclosure that I was trying with an SSD and I couldn't get it to work. Not sure if USB and SSD don't mix?
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Post by Porridge{QAW} on May 10, 2017 11:36:23 GMT -5
So, there is one issue that's been persistent on this new machine since day 1.
On every map, there is a portion of the map that tends to flicker. It's a little hard to explain, but for example on Battery, if I am axis and standing on top of the hill looking down at the beach, the graphic tiles on the sea shore tend to keep rendering.
To the point, that it's difficult for me to "see" anyone in that area. Almost every map has this weird constant rendering thing going on at random places. It's especially visible on larger maps and when I'm looking into the distance.
When I get close to the "rendering" area - that portion looks fine again. Also, I don't see this on close quarters areas like inside the bunker on battery etc. Also, doesn't seem to happen much on gold rush (but that map always renders the best regardless of what PC you are on).
Any ideas?
I'm researching issues with RX 480... yeah, there are random reports of issues - but I suppose I could research any card and there's going to be someone who reports something negative.
Diz bought the same machine except with an nvidia and he doesn't seem to have any problems.
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Post by boca{QAW} on May 10, 2017 13:39:20 GMT -5
Maybe post your video card settings for ET,, like from your control panel. I am just guessing here but something like triple buffering or vsync.. or some such Might be the problem..I am only guessing here though,, it would help if you could post a pic, I think I have an idea of what your talking about, I remember at one time all the edges on some maps ingame would look "brown" and flicker and it was one of the settings in my nvidia control panel. But post a pic if you can..
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Post by tonofclay{QAW} on May 10, 2017 13:41:34 GMT -5
Do you have r_primitives set to 2? That seems to be the first thing everyone says to do all the time Maybe run in XP compatibility mode if you're not already? I also see some suggestion of disabling GL extensions (I guess this is an option in game?) A lot of search results seem to be frame rate related but maybe some of these would do the trick?
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Post by Porridge{QAW} on May 10, 2017 14:28:46 GMT -5
Maybe post your video card settings for ET,, like from your control panel. I am just guessing here but something like triple buffering or vsync.. or some such Might be the problem..I am only guessing here though,, it would help if you could post a pic, I think I have an idea of what your talking about, I remember at one time all the edges on some maps ingame would look "brown" and flicker and it was one of the settings in my nvidia control panel. But post a pic if you can.. Thanks - yeah, I'll post it later.
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Post by Porridge{QAW} on May 10, 2017 14:30:43 GMT -5
Do you have r_primitives set to 2? That seems to be the first thing everyone says to do all the time Maybe run in XP compatibility mode if you're not already? I also see some suggestion of disabling GL extensions (I guess this is an option in game?) A lot of search results seem to be frame rate related but maybe some of these would do the trick? I'm pretty certain my r_primitives is set to 2. I'll check that out. I saw this somewhere: ________________ /seta r_primitives 2 // 2 should be the same rendering method as 0; 1 was always the slowest for me and 0 the fastest but worth to try 0/1/2 on different videocards I guess ________________ Maybe I'll try fiddling with that setting. Not sure what that setting is for tho' lol. hmmm... let me look into the GL settings too.
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BlaZeR
Server Admin
Regrets lasts longer than pain...
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Post by BlaZeR on May 10, 2017 16:03:14 GMT -5
Try disabling vsync
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Post by Porridge{QAW} on May 10, 2017 21:51:09 GMT -5
Will give this a shot tomorrow.
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Post by Porridge{QAW} on May 12, 2017 8:27:56 GMT -5
So, here is a screen shot of the weird effect (in random parts of the map) - except that area also flickers: When searching online it appears to be "screen tearing". My monitor is pretty old too (10+ years) ... related? BlaZeR : I checked vsync and it appears to be off. boca{QAW} - here are the screenshots of the vid card: Edit: tonofclay{QAW} - r_primitives was set to 2
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Post by tonofclay{QAW} on May 12, 2017 9:56:21 GMT -5
Have you tried setting r_primitives to 2?
But really, I dunno what sort of impact this might have but for the ET specific settings in the Radeon program could you maybe set all those things to use application settings if that's an option? Or maybe at least change them to some other option that's available and see if it has any effect in game?
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Post by boca{QAW} on May 12, 2017 10:31:56 GMT -5
The only other thing I can think of that would cause the tearing like that on the tunnel entrance is your frame rate is higher than the refresh rate. you stated "When searching online it appears to be "screen tearing". My monitor is pretty old too (10+ years) ... related?"
This is a maybe,, if your not a CRT monitor then probably not, unless your locking your fps to something really crazy. I lock my fps to 76, my monitor and video card can handle much higher but this is a pretty happy medium for me. I did not see in your pick you using fps reporting and or lagometer , maybe try to lock your fps to something low like the 76 and see if this helps,, with your setup I know you can go much higher but this will let us know if the monitor for some reason is lagging behind. Getting 125 fps should be another easy one for your machine, and might be a bit smoother for you.
The only other thing I can think of is in game rate 25000 cl_maxpackets 100 or something close to these numbers,, google and others on here might have some better numbers for this, but I think these can also cause laggy fps but I am not sure they can cause the tearing your seeing, maybe others will chime in.
let us know what if any of this helps..
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Post by Porridge{QAW} on May 12, 2017 12:24:05 GMT -5
Have you tried setting r_primitives to 2? lol... BTW - I did try 0 as a setting too... the graphics looked much better but the game was virtually unplayable. I still have no idea what that setting does. The radeon does have a separate profile for ET - altho' all the settings look the same.
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Post by Porridge{QAW} on May 12, 2017 12:28:53 GMT -5
The only other thing I can think of that would cause the tearing like that on the tunnel entrance is your frame rate is higher than the refresh rate. you stated "When searching online it appears to be "screen tearing". My monitor is pretty old too (10+ years) ... related?" This is a maybe,, if your not a CRT monitor then probably not, unless your locking your fps to something really crazy. I lock my fps to 76, my monitor and video card can handle much higher but this is a pretty happy medium for me. I did not see in your pick you using fps reporting and or lagometer , maybe try to lock your fps to something low like the 76 and see if this helps,, with your setup I know you can go much higher but this will let us know if the monitor for some reason is lagging behind. Getting 125 fps should be another easy one for your machine, and might be a bit smoother for you. The only other thing I can think of is in game rate 25000 cl_maxpackets 100 or something close to these numbers,, google and others on here might have some better numbers for this, but I think these can also cause laggy fps but I am not sure they can cause the tearing your seeing, maybe others will chime in. let us know what if any of this helps.. This has got.to.be.it! I don't have a specific FPS locked in my config. I used to have 76 previously - and would barely get that with my old machine. I changed it to 300 or something when I got the new machine (I'll have to see what I did to the FPS setting - maybe I removed it already). Anyway, I do get close to 300 (altho' it fluctuates). So, maybe the refresh rate of the monitor cannot handle the higher number of frames/packets or something like that maybe... Let me tinker with the FPS/maxpackets settings and see what happens. Danke.
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BlaZeR
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Post by BlaZeR on May 12, 2017 16:10:27 GMT -5
Unless you have the command r_displayrefresh set manually in your config the game automatically detects your monitor refresh rate.
I think it's something related to the rendering of textures the game uses, I do remember that AMD+ET used to have this issue a while ago.
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